On the Sunday of the 30th COP schedule, a small restaurant in Belem served breakfast to people from 17 countries. At tables packed with ministers, foreign ministers and international leaders, the climate agreements gave respite to other negotiations: try the marajo cheese tostada or the albacore crème brûlée first?
November 16 was the most profitable day in the seven years of Ver-o-Pesinho, a bistro that boasts 92% of its menu is made in Pará.
“It was not easy to serve people from many places, from Russian to Arabic, but I can say that we lived in AC/DC, before and after the COP,” says Manuel Neto, 34, co-owner of the space in the Nazareth neighborhood who has just opened a unit in Mercado São Bras, also in the city.
The day after the record attendance, a dose of Tucopi broth was the start of lunch with mango ceviche (R$59), tapioca lace (R$48), cassava cake (R$35) and other delicacies.
You can enjoy it all in the restaurant’s cozy main room, among the colorful walls, Círio de Nazaré bars and T-shirts printed with galas, a local slang that refers to just about everything.
There the designer-turned-chef and internet celebrity created a contemporary interpretation of Barra cuisine, in partnership with local producers.
An example of this is the smoked piraruco that arrives every Tuesday from Santarém to fill the lasagna with fried plantains (R$92), the restaurant’s main product. Cheese from Ilha do Marajo, Cumaru caramel from Jucariba and bread from Padaria Carneiro round out the lunch plate (R$108), which is praised by foreigners.
The manicopa with jumbo farofa, which resembles a feijoada, was made by Ludio Brandão, Manuel’s father. “He’s a great cook,” says his son, who learned to operate the stove as a child.
His mother, Doña Fania, takes care of another aspect of Ver-o-Pesinho: the souvenir shop with handcrafted pieces that occupies the side of the restaurant. It’s an invitation to shop until the dish arrives. Ceramics, clothing, cosmetics, drinks, paintings and all kinds of handicrafts, created by more than 30 Amazonian artists.
Among them are a collection of tiles inspired by Círio de Nazaré, designed by Igapó Ladrilhos, jambú Meu Garoto cachaças, Meriti toys and a ceramic collection by Mr. Marivaldo, from Marago.
“It took a long time to organize, but the reward is to hear from the tourist that they found everything they needed here,” says Manuel.
The store came before the restaurant, in 2018, when an area mall invited the designer to mimic the experience of the traditional Ver-o-Peso market, the largest open-air market in Latin America, for a month. It worked so well that thirty days turned into five years, even with a pandemic in the way.
The store was named Ver-o-Pesinho, and ended up in seven restaurants, including the trendy Casa do Saulo, in downtown Belem. In 2023, it occupied the current 280-metre-long property on Benjamin Constant Street.
“But then the café broke into the store space, moved to the sidewalk and the second floor, and then became a bistro serving breakfast, lunch and dinner,” he adds.
The plan is big and gained momentum with COP30: to communicate to the people of Pará and the market that it is worth investing in regional cuisine and culture. “It shows everyone that it is better to eat at Ver-o-Pesinho than to eat fast food.”
Manuel flies this flag by serving (and posting photos of his recipes with) Pará governor Helder Barbalo, singer Zianara, presenter Zica Camargo, and chef Bill Coelho, among others.
“The pirarucu lasagne is amazing, and I’m fascinated by the ver-au-biscene,” Bell said during her visit.
“My favorite part is the walls of Ver-o-Pesinho, it has many surprises, it is a center of culture where I miss Barra,” Zeca Camargo posted on Instagram.
The chef wants to expand the idea to other places, but “he will not leave Belém until the COP is over.”
The moment, Manuel says, is an “ocean of blue.” In business parlance, this means an unexplored niche market – a concept he translates to Belém’s climate: “I’m going to take advantage of this blue ocean, this brown Guajara Bay, with high tides and open skies.”