El Bajío, a Mexican classic in Madrid

In 1972, Raul Ramírez and his wife Carmen, known as Tetita, opened a traditional cuisine restaurant in Mexico City, which they named Albaguio. Their success has been so great that they have achieved this now Nineteen institutionsalways with Popular Mexican cuisine is the focus and with Titata the great standard bearer.

I met El Baguio and Carmen at their mother house in Cuitlahuac thanks to Bruno Oteiza and Mikel Alonso, the great Basque chefs who were then in charge of Pico, a restaurant that has now disappeared but two decades ago was one of the best restaurants in the Mexican capital. I was blown away by Tita’s personality and energy. Since that first occasion I have eaten several times at their various establishments, the last time a couple of years ago at Reforma (in my memory of Veracruz-style language, Carmen from Veracruz for some reason), and I have always considered it The best choice To enjoy authentic Mexican cuisine in the city.

Two years ago, without a sound, it was opened Branch in Madrid, On Espanoleto Street. Dark place and poor room service didn’t help at first. The restaurant moved this summer to a more suitable space in Juan Bravo Streetand the team run by Yolanda Iglesias (who many will remember for Las Pocholas del Retiro) has brought about a radical change. All of this, combined with the exquisite cuisine helmed by a veteran chef specially arrived from Mexico, places El Baguio as one of the best restaurants in the world. The most interesting Mexican restaurants in Madrid.

A bright dining room without unnecessary popular displays (with tables without tablecloths) is the place to experiment Traditional dishes. Fresh and spicy sauces made to order, aguachile, tostadas, tacos, sopes, pozole, enmoladas, cooked fish or zarandiano and, above all, some carnitas (22 euros for 250 grams) that are great specialties of the house. They’re served in a pot accompanied by (a lot of) chopped onions, cilantro, lime, various sauces (if you like spice, ask for habanero and matcha) and some excellent fresh tortillas so the diner can make the tacos to their liking. excellent.

Main photo - Aguachil verde, zarandada, and tuna toast, from El Baguio
Secondary Image 1 - Green aguachile, zarandada, and tuna bread, from El Baguio
Secondary Image 2 - Green aguachile, zarandada, and tuna bread, from El Baguio
Verde aguachile, zarandada, and tuna toast, from El Baguio

To start, we tried the right guacamole (12) with some perfectly dried pork rinds; fresh green corvina aguachile (19); Good tuna tostadas with chipotle sauce (7), and wonderful marinated sirloin (13, two pieces) with avocado and bean base. Although everything is very traditional, they allow some nods to Spain as with the notable green pozole with verdine and pheasant (16). The sea bream zarandyada (26), marinated in guajillo chiles with a mashed potato base, is good but overcooked.

Image - El Baguio
  • address:
    C. Juan Bravo, 23. Madrid. phone. 659 051 592. It does not close. www.restauranteelbajio.es
  • The best:
    Carnitas.
  • Average price:
    65 euros.
  • eligible:
    7.

Very sweet sweets,Mexican style, coffee pot. Although this cuisine pairs best with beer, the effort to offer an attractive and different wine list is appreciated. And of course they have a whole section of Tequila and mezcales.