Arnedillo, a municipality of La Rioja located in the Cidacos Valley, offers this weekend the opportunity to participate in a unique tradition that transforms the city every last Sunday of November and stands as an example of intangible cultural heritage, integrating history, dedication and community engagement. The municipality of Rioja includes historic buildings, remains of medieval fortifications, thermal springs known since Roman times, as well as ceremonies that preserve the collective memory of the city.
Arnedello is also located in an area of great ecological value declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2003. The environment combines mountainous terrain with the course of the Sidakos River, forming valleys, waterfalls and areas of diverse vegetation that contribute to its natural wealth. These elements form a landscape intertwined with streets and historic buildings, reflecting the interaction between the natural environment and human activity over the centuries.
Smoke parade
On the last Sunday of November every year, the municipality of Arnedello in Riojan commemorates a tradition that combines history and devotion. The origins of the smoke parade go back to the end of the 19th century, when a black smallpox epidemic seriously affected the city and caused dozens of deaths in a very short period. In the absence of effective medical treatments, residents turned to religious rituals to protect themselves and find solace, giving rise to a practice that remains today one of the most representative events in the city.
According to tradition, a candle system was used to determine which saint should accompany the community during the procession. The choice fell on Saint Andrew, who is considered the protector of health. To reinforce this act of devotion, bonfires of rosemary and grojo were lit in the squares and streets of the city. The thick, aromatic smoke emanating from these plants became an essential element of the ceremony, while the image of the saint moved through the city streets accompanied by neighbors, strengthening the symbolic link between protection, community and historical memory.
Currently, the smoke procession maintains this ritual scheme. The day begins with the preparation of bonfires, continues with the procession of the saint and ends with High Mass, where the artisanal products are blessed and later auctioned off.
In 2013, the festival was declared a Festival of Regional Tourist Interest, a recognition that demonstrates its cultural importance and its ability to preserve traditions that connect residents to the history of their municipality. The procession remains a meeting that integrates heritage, faith, and collective participation.
Historical and thermal spaces of Arnedillo
Arnedello has a combination of historical and natural elements that reflect the development of the municipality. The Church of San Servando and San Germain is one of the most representative buildings. It was declared an Asset of Cultural Importance in the Monument category on 28 June 1984. Its structure and architectural elements show a mixture of styles developed over the centuries and constitute a fine example of the religious heritage of the city.
The ruins of Arnedello Castle date back to 1170, when it is believed to have been built to control the passage of territory in a region that had not yet been unified under Christian rule. The currently preserved remains essentially correspond to the 13th century and allow us to appreciate the strategic position of the fortification on the promontory dominating the Sidakos River valley.
The municipality is also famous for its hot springs, which emerge from several medicinal mineral springs. This water has a temperature of 52.5°C and has been used historically by local people, forming an important resource for health and tourism.
The bridge over the Sidacus River connects the urban center with the castle, cemetery, and the Church of San Servando and Saint Germain. This construction facilitates access to the various heritage elements and preserves the historical relationship between the natural and built spaces of the municipality, reflecting the traditional planning of Arnedello.