The monster who learned to swim across rivers

There are places in Africa that seem invented. Places where nature follows its own rules, where animals adapt as if no one warned them they couldn’t. One of those places in Guinea Bissauin the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, between mangroves, canals and villages that live to the rhythm of the tides. There, in the heart Orango National ParkHe lives alone Saltwater hippos Documented in the world. A people learning to survive in coastal ecosystems, moving between lakes connected to the sea.

What any wildlife guide might consider a biological anomaly, for the Bijago people – the ancestral inhabitants of this archipelago – is part of their worldview. Not only do these animals represent strength and fertility, they are sacred beings. Their presence is linked to ritual, collective memory and a deep respect for the land.

A unique enclave within the Bijagos Islands

he Orango National Park It is part of the protected group of Bijagos IslandsIt has been declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO. It is an isolated area where getting there is part of the journey. First you have to get to Bissau; Then sail for hours to the south of the archipelago, where currents soften the water and mangroves stretch in all directions.

Orango is also one of the islands most closely associated with the Bijago identity. Here villages function around clans, ceremonies keep their spiritual roots intact, and the relationship with animals is not limited to the practical: it is part of the spiritual balance. In this context, they are understood Saltwater hippos It is not only a question of biology, but also of culture.

These hippos move through inland lakes that mix with sea water at many times of the year. They have adapted their behavior to hybrid landscapes where palm trees, aerial roots and expanses of white sand coexist. Their daily routine takes place between swampy areas, shallow channels, and areas where brackish water mixes with fresh water. They are free-spirited, secretive animals, rarely seen, and this difficulty is part of their charm.

Hippo vision challenge

he Seeing a hippopotamus Orango is unlike any other African safari. There are no boats to approach the animal or platforms from which to observe it comfortably. The only way to reach them is on foot, guided by local experts who know the terrain and know how to read the landscape: footprints in the mud, recently cleared canals, the remains of smashed plants.

The most emblematic path leads to the Anwar Lakes, a space of almost absolute silence where time seems to stand still. Unlike other areas of the archipelago, access by canoe or boat is not permitted here. It all depends on the traveler’s patience and the respect with which he behaves. There are no guarantees that you will see them: Saltwater hippos They are unpredictable animals and their existence depends on time, weather and water level.

When they appear, their impact is immediate. Their heads emerge between the mangroves, advancing quietly and diving again without leaving a trace. Mentors are well aware of the distance that must be maintained in order not to change their behavior. The premise is simple: observation without intervention. It is the only way to preserve the environment that remains virgin precisely because human intervention has been minimal.

he Seeing a hippopotamus In Orango it has become an activity that combines ecotourism, cultural learning and environmental conservation. Each visit indirectly supports local projects that seek to preserve the integrity of this fragile ecosystem, with crocodiles, migratory birds, mangrove fish and plants that are difficult to find outside the area. Bijagos Islands.