The gray dawn of Istanbul seemed to shroud everything in a veil of mystery as Pope Leo It was his first encounter as pope with a site sacred to Islam, and the city welcomed him amid overcast skies, expectant cameras and the disturbed cawing of a crow that flew above the domes like a curious sentinel of the past.
Hours later, without rain but with the same emotions, thousands of faithful gathered to see him lead his first Mass in Türkiye, a country with a small but fervent Catholic minority. For many, it was an unforgettable day.
Leo XIV, born in the United States and of Peruvian descent, lived his last moments in Türkiye before embarking on his journey to Lebanon. He did so in a remarkable gesture of openness and dialogue: in addition to Mass in Istanbul, he held meetings with Turkish church leaders and a warm conversation with Bartholomew I, Patriarch of Constantinople.
In a country of 86 million people, where Catholics represent barely 0.1%, the pope’s presence was a gift. Nearly 4,000 faithful were able to approach the Volkswagen Arena after strict security checks. There the noise erupted: cheers, applause, handkerchiefs in the air and the excitement of those who had waited for hours in the rain.
“It is a very meaningful visit,” said Chidim Asinanyan, who was waiting under a wet umbrella. “I hope this will raise awareness among everyone.”
Also among them was Kasra Esfandiari, a young Iranian Christian refugee who traveled six hours by car with her mother: “It is a historic moment. I cannot miss it.”
A silent gesture
The day began with an unforgettable postcard: Leo’s Muslim aides described to him the history of the temple while the pope listened in deep contemplation, barely interrupted by the mechanical sound of cameras.
He did not pray as Francis did on a previous visit. But the Vatican explained: “The Pope lived the visit in a spirit of silence and deep respect for the faith of those who pray in this place.”
On this occasion, Leo XIV decided not to visit Hagia Sophia, in a gesture reminiscent of the sensitivity resulting from its conversion into a mosque in 2020.
A meeting to build bridges
After the visit, the Pope and Bartholomew I signed a joint declaration in which they asked to defend interreligious dialogue and reject any use of religion to justify violence. They also returned to the topic that had united them for years: the search for a common date to celebrate Easter, which is one of the most prominent scars of the division between East and West.
Fences, curious people and emotions
Despite the cold, many Istanbul residents took to the streets to watch the papal convoy pass by. Some were shaken. Others were frustrated.
Sedat Keizer, a roasted corn seller, expressed a mixture of admiration and disappointment: “I like people from different cultures to meet. But the Pope would be more sincere if he could mingle with the people. No one can see him.”
The papal visit left its mark on Friday, when Leo XIV called for Christian unity in Isennik, where the 1,700th anniversary of the historic Council of Nicaea was commemorated.