During this time when lower temperatures herald the end of autumn, and with the occasional sunny day inviting a break from the routine, escaping into nature is the perfect plan. There’s nothing like entering the landscape that hides around every corner of the peninsula, and appreciating centuries of history and landscape.
At the western tip of Cantabria, we find one of the most exclusive corners of the Lipana region. There, over the centuries, an amazing space has been created that invites you to walk among the silent paths, rediscover tranquility and lose yourself in a forest inhabited by ancient trees, whose twisted trunks look like sculptures formed by nature. These giant, moss-covered plants marked by the passage of time tell the memory of many generations without words.
This is Habario, also known as Castanera de Brindis, one of the most distinctive ancient chestnut groves in the region. It is located on the Camino Lebaniego, between the towns of Cabañe and Prendes, within the municipality of Cillorigo de Liébana, surrounded by two protected areas. SCI (Place of Community Importance) in Liébana and SPA (Special Bird Protection Area) in Hermida Gorge.
During the rest of the fall, the forest becomes a kaleidoscope of ochre, gold and copper hues. With the fallen leaves of chestnut trees, the ground is covered like a huge carpet that squeaks when you step on it.
When winter approaches, especially when the cold brings a thin blanket of snow, the chestnut tree takes on a peaceful atmosphere. The bare trees are reflected in the gray sky and the silence allows you to hear even the slight click of footsteps on the frozen ground, turning walking into a meditative experience that connects the traveler with nature in its purest state.
To enter El Habario, you must overcome the first paths, where the landscape suddenly opens up and chestnut giants with impossible twisted shapes appear before pedestrians, reminiscent of figures carved in wood. In that moment you understand why this place is considered one of the most striking landscapes in Cantabria.
The origin of Habario is linked to the traditional use of the chestnut tree. For centuries, this tree has provided sustainable food for rural people, as well as wood to make tools, build homes, and of course provide shade and shelter in the hottest summers. Today, this legacy is still evident in the grasslands, in ancient harvesting methods and in forest use areas that still coexist with an environment increasingly appreciated by hikers.
Hiking route
The main Habario road runs between the towns of Brindis and Cabanes. This beautiful path crosses the oldest chestnut tree in the region and places the traveler in the heart of Cantabrian nature. Those who walk its paths for hours notice a great variety of ancient chestnut trees. The silence is only broken by the rustle of dry leaves, the whisper of the wind between the branches, or the singing of birds flying over the area.
Walking here invites you to walk slowly, stopping every few steps to observe the strange shapes of trunks, some of which are so large that they appear to be guarding the forest. Thus, Hapario can be considered a real open-air museum, where the beauty, history and memory of previous generations can be appreciated.
The route is easy, about five kilometres, and is completed in about two hours. It starts in the grounds of Castañar itself, where you’ll find a pleasant picnic area equipped with water fountains and a park area. From there we follow the path designated for licensed vehicles. The route is perfectly marked with green signs throughout the entire trek, making it impossible to get lost.
As you proceed, you can stop at several viewpoints in the area: La Hermida, Quito Ajero, Pico de Europa, and Pilea Hill from where you can see the towns of Cabañes, Brindis, Allende, Lipina and Copina, as well as the impressive silhouette of Peña Ventosa. Stunning panoramic views are offered that make the walk even more worthwhile.
After this short walk through the viewpoints of the chestnut grove, the path descends between meadows until it joins the track to the town of Brindis. Where we can wander the streets and admire their beautiful homes, until we hit the road again. After about ten minutes of walking, we returned to the starting point.
Mirador de los Moros
If you still have time after hiking in the jungle and want to enjoy a bird’s-eye view, Mirador del Corral de Los Morros is the perfect choice. It is located in an old medieval defensive enclosure, and allows you to see the length of the area made up of more than two hundred huge chestnut trees, as well as the remains of ancient settlements.
This viewpoint is ideal for enjoying the vastness of the landscape and is especially recommended at sunset, especially when the clouds remain low and create a relaxing atmosphere. In front of us is an authentic natural terrace from which we can appreciate the vastness of this unique chestnut grove, consisting of hundreds of ancient trees. The panorama opens up towards the eastern block of Picos de Europa, providing an unmistakable setting.
From the same forest you visited, with its silhouette trees and twisted roots, you can walk to the Mirador del Corral de Los Morros.