Brazilian cuisine without deconstruction or confusion

The Rudä restaurant has changed its menu. And everything Danilo Parah does interests me. He is one of the few chefs here to invest in Brazilian cuisine. Parah was born in the western area of Rio, raised by women cooks, with French training: he worked at Mirazur, owned by Mauro Colagreco, in Menton, near Monaco. And also in our Lakes Region, thus accumulating beach experiences from here and elsewhere. It is precisely this “mixture” that enchants me and that makes Danilo a cook (I like this definition more than a chef) — special in the Rio scene.

The restaurant remains in a privileged place, among all the gastronomic flags of Garcia D’Ávila, the beating heart and stomach of Ipanema. Two-storey house with a ground floor lined with numerous niches, which I like (some people, on the contrary, find it strange).

They welcome you with a menu provided, which is rare these days (I prefer the lighter versions), but you shouldn’t get lost. Don’t be indifferent to the musical score, it’s delicious. It’s one of the houses that I usually suggest to my foreign friends, especially foreigners, because everything is there: Rio, Brazil and the sea two blocks away.

The “complete table” concept continues to be Parah’s hallmark. Don’t think about overflowing dishes, but well served. The new vintage, and this is what I want to talk about, is one of the best.

Brazilian shells from Rudä — Photo: Rodrigo Azevedo

The fresh pastry, made with house-made dough (of course), includes coalho cheese, roasted tomatoes and dark cream cheese (R$36); the Brazilian shells (lambreta, vôngole and mussel) arrive with a creamy sauce with a touch of cachaça and charred bread to dip in the broth (R$65), and the crab shells are in phyllo pastry with the crustaceans au gratin (R$52). Oh, there’s the cassava ball filled with dried meat, tomato sauce, a delicate pardinho cheese fonduta (great from the Brazilian cheese shop), pesto and topped with a cloud of tulha cheese (R$46).

Among the main dishes, strawberry shrimp with pumpkin rice with honey neck (R$139) and pressed cassava ribs, Brazilian cheese reduction, roti sauce and watercress salad. Commonly overwhelmed cow (R$90). At this point in the meal, both share dishes. Soft green corn tart with orange zest, fleur de sel and a spoonful of goat’s milk jam (R$36) and crunchy cocoa and cashew nuts (R$38) to top it off.

Zero deconstruction and confusion: contemporary Brazilian cuisine, and understand it, made in a lighter way, opting for less heavy and caloric contributions. That’s modernity. Happy holidays everyone.