“classic” Italian cuisine, fine and discreet, obtains the best marks; I know what to try

Nido has existed for seven years, at the end of Av. General San Martin, in Leblon. This is one of the best Italian restaurants we have here — and also one of the most low-key. At the helm is Italian chef Rudy Bovo (have you heard of him?), who serves fine, delicate Venetian cuisine with fresh, light pasta. And when it gets warmer and the truffle season arrives, Bovo has its connections with Piedmont and the “tartufi bianchi” are grated without parsimony at the tables of the guests of the “GDP” in the sky. It is a house of superlatives, in many ways.

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It operates in a spacious two-story building, with many rooms and different tables – oval, rectangular, for some, for many – all covered with white tablecloths and napkins. Classic type. We speak quietly and we hear a beautiful musical score in the background, written by client Ed Motta (he did it for both teams and for the weekend). And it has civilized decibels – how beautiful, Ed’s uncle would say. With so many predicates, I have no track record of awards in international, local or even Michelin rankings. Moves on other wheels. Nido, although few people have written or said it until now, is an exceptional Italian.

One of those restaurants that goes from start to coffee, great espresso. On the cover, polpetas, eggplant caponata, tuna salad with white beans and fine bread and toast, grissini, white pizza (R$86). Get it wrong and lunch is over. To top it off, I like the sea carpaccios, they make several: the octopus one arrives finely with olive cream and pomodoro on top (R$119), and the crudita di mare presents salmon, tuna and translucent white fish, spread on the same plate (R$99). Almost a dive.

Ample. The Nido living room — Photo: Disclosure/Rodrigo Azevedo

The chef’s pastas are generally filled, I tried the cacio pepe lamb ravioli (R$120), delicious. Among the risottos, that with sliced duck combined with caramelized pear (R$118) and that with mascarpone with Parma ham and summer truffles (less tasty, R$133). Polentas? Of the four, the Tuscan sausage stew is good, but it’s a sweat (R$109). I suggest the taleggio, perfect (R$102). Bovo is a chef who moves around the room, listens to the customer and adapts the dish if necessary (I always miss vegetables in the side dishes). Another trait that catches my attention: he likes to make treats. And it does it well.

This may sound silly, but it’s not: Boni (José Bonifácio Sobrinho) frequents Nido, there’s even one of his tables there. After spending nearly three decades reviewing restaurants, I’ve learned: That’s a huge endorsement.

Nido: Five small forks (excellent)

Av. Général San Martin 1 011, Leblon (2259-7696). Monday, 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 12 p.m. to midnight. Sunday, from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.