Although the cake It has a Spanish-Arabic origin, in Argentina this dish is easy to eat, but its preparation is an art, and has a unique variety of flavors depending on the products and techniques of each region. In Tucumán it has been almost a state affair and a religious experience since 1979 National Empanada Festival in Famaillábrings thousands of people together to celebrate and honor one of the most beloved dishes and crown a champion.
Each edition brings together competitors from all over the country and this year it took place from September 12th to 14th at the premises of Simeón Nieva, where 27 chefs took part in front of an expert jury that evaluated the juiciness of the filling, the thirteen characteristic repulgues, the correct baking point and of course the taste. This year the winner went to Gladys Noemí Perea, who came second in 2020 when she decided to take part for the first time. From that moment on, he improved and competed every year. “I had the joy of being national empanada champion this year,” she tells LA NACION enthusiastically.
Her path into gastronomy began 20 years ago: first in a party bar and later selling to the public on the Paseo de Emprendedores, in front of the historic Famaillá theme park. There you can find her every Sunday in front of her stand, which is called “A good gastronomic moment”.
But his connection to empanadas began much earlier, when he was just 12 years old. “My grandfather taught me how to cook them on a brazier; he liked to cook them on Sundays when he came back from mass.”she remembers excitedly. And he adds: “This award is a reminder of him, because he was the one who taught me to do what I love and who always encouraged me to keep going.”
The authentic Tucuman empanada begins with a dough made from a kilo of flour, two hundred grams of pella or beef fat, a pinch of salt and 250 ml of warm water. “The dough should be neither too hard nor too soft for the rolls”Gladys clarifies. This preparation creates the slices for the empanada, which ideally have a diameter of eleven centimeters.
And although some opt for butter, oil or margarine, the tradition remains true melted beef fatwhich gives a distinctive taste. The secret lies not only in the ingredients, but also in the time: The dough should rest for as long as possible to reach the perfect consistency, about 10 minutesand the slices should be stretched thin so that cooking is even.
At the time of aversion, The traditional empanada of Tucumán has thirteen, neither more nor one less, relating to the twelve apostles and Jesus.. Each one is handcrafted with patience and skill, just as the custom requires. “The slice of the empanada has to be 11 centimeters in size so that the 13 repulgues we use here come out,” says Gladys, adding: “In Tucumán, gastronomy is very familiar with religion.”
Stuffing requires the same dedication. Be part of one Matambre cooked with salt for 40 minutes which, after cooling, is cut into small cubes with a knife. In a separate pot, melt a tablespoon of fat with a little oil and slowly fry the chopped white onion, pepper, cumin, salt and chili.
Immediately add a splash of the Matambre cooking stock and, as soon as it starts to boil, add the meat and stir until everything is combined. “You have to be very careful not to overdo it with the broth,” says the reigning champion. Finally add the finely chopped green onions and, once the preparation has cooled, the chopped hard-boiled eggs.
To cook, the oven needs to be in just the right spot, hot enough to brown evenly, but never so hot that you get raw spots. The ideal time is between 15 and 20 minutes. However, nothing comes close to the result of the clay oven, which gives it a smokier and deeper flavor. “It takes 10 minutes at the latest in the clay oven,” explains Gladys.
With the certainty that only experience gives, Gladys aptly points out that one kilo of flour makes 30 empanadas and that “even if five hundred of them are made, none of them should lose quality: each must maintain its taste, its preparation and its impeccable preparation.”
In Famaillá, home of the National Empanada Festival, the recipe becomes a living heritage passed down from generation to generation. It means sharing the history and traditions of Tucumán, a pride that Gladys – like so many other Tucumáns – always carries with her. “I am proud of what I have done, of what I am doing and will continue to do in my beloved Tucumán,” concludes the winner.
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