Mimada Café, by Renata Vanzetto, focuses on the brunch menu – 17/12/2025 – Café na Prensa

Mimada Café, chef Renata Vanzetto’s bet on the growing segment of houses specializing in brunch, includes breakfast classics, salads and sweets already served in other establishments of the group.

The house is located on Rua Bela Cintra, in the western region of São Paulo, right next to other restaurants of the Eme Group – a group of Vanzetto companies – such as Muquifo, Mamma Vanzetto, Matilda and Motel.

A good option to start the meal is Platô Sadelle’s (R$92), marked on the menu as “chef’s suggestion”. It’s a reference to Sadelle’s Tower, a dish served on three floors with salmon, tuna and bagel from the restaurant of the same name, which opened in New York in 2015 – and which now has units spread around the world.

Mimada’s version features tuna crudo, salmon gravlax, and egg-dill sour cream. The tastiest tuna comes with a drizzle of olive oil. The salmon, while not providing as much flavor, is cut into meatier pieces and pairs well with sour cream and lemon – freshly squeezed by the customer if desired.

Instead of the usually heavy New York house bagels, Mimada serves fish with croissant toast. Sliced ​​very thinly, they seem like a more delicate option, but in practice they don’t work very well, because the dimples make it difficult to balance the fish on the dough, which still breaks easily.

Vanzetto chose to keep the presentation on three floors. When Sadelle’s opened, Pete Wells, a New York Times food critic who retired last year, wrote of the dish: “It’s showy and extravagant, but it’s great.” The same goes for the Mimada version.

Among the more trivial foods are sandwiches, scrambled eggs and cheese bread (R$16) – the latter, served pressed, with a portion of cream cheese.

The brewed coffee (R$13), made with special beans grown in the Garça region (SP), meets your expectations. With medium sweetness and low acidity, it appeals to those who turn their noses towards more exotic coffees. And, while it’s not particularly interesting, it doesn’t scare off drinks lovers either. It’s simple homemade coffee, made to accompany the meal, and not to be enjoyed alone.

The juices are served in disposable cups, a disharmonious choice to say the least. Plastic containers do not match retro-style tableware – which is even sold in the Eme group’s grocery store. They also contrast with the classic style cups in which the coffees are served. They also do not agree with the pompous presentation on three floors of Platô Sadelle, suggested by the chef. Not to mention the issue of the unnecessary disposal of plastic that this practice generates, given that this volume of waste is significant in an establishment with a customer flow typical of Vanzetto’s businesses.

Among the sweets, the house offers French toast (R$46) – served with caramel ice cream –, waffles (R$45) and American-style pancakes (R$40), as well as desserts very popular in other houses in the group. This is the case of the carrot cake from Muquifo (42 R$), the pavlova from Ema (45 R$) and the strawberry temptation from Motel (45 R$).

The banana bread (R$38) has a soft crumb and lightly toasted edges. The flavor of ripe fruit topped with vanilla makes for a tasty and very sweet slice. The portion is generous and enough for two guests to share at the end of the meal.

This would have worked incredibly well with an espresso, but the drink was not available during the report’s visit. If, on the one hand, it is disappointing to have a cafe that does not serve espresso despite the large machine installed inside the room, on the other hand, it is understandable that the adjustments are normal at the start of the operation — the journalist visited the house in the second week after the soft opening.

Fortunately, the variety went well with that of Platô Sadelle. It is indeed worth returning home through this entrance which, on a sweltering day, typical of the São Paulo summer, will pair even better with an iced latte – hopefully not served in a disposable cup.

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