Criticism | RJ
Lagoa bar
street. Epitasio Pessoa, 1674, Lagoa. @barlagua
2 stars (standard)
A reputation is not built overnight, and in its 91 years of operation, Bar Lagoa has carried with it the almost folkloric reputation of having unfriendly bartenders. It is also known for its pleasant terrace, beautiful Art Deco ambiance and delicious dishes. It’s all true.
Tournedor Lagoa – filet mignon with bacon, hearts of palm, asparagus and Prussian potatoes, from Bar Lagoa
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Cleo Guimarães/fullhapress
As for the waiters, not that they are rude. They seem to be trying hard to end the stigma once and for all – and they’re almost there. It’s useful and effective, but dare to ask details about the dish (“Has the heart of palm been preserved?”, that’s what I wanted to know) until an experienced professional responds with a monologue and looks the other way. Stop!
If there was a meme right now, it would be the good old ‘No time bro’. They don’t have much patience anyway. “once again?” Another commented out loud when he saw me photographing (yes, again) this beautiful Carrara marble countertop. The counter is one of the many vintage decor elements that give Bar Lagoa all its charm.
And the dishes? Well, they follow the classic recipe of German and Brazilian cuisine, with options like sliced bread with potato salad (R$170), one of the house classics for decades, as well as pork knuckle with sauerkraut (R$155) and käsler (smoked pork) with sauerkraut or potato salad (R$155). I went to Milan.
Potato salad with mayonnaise contains the right amount of onions, very thin, and is served on a dessert plate. The first impression is that there will be a little salad for a lot of meat, which is not the case. It ended up being enough for a huge steak, which didn’t nearly fit on the plate. It’s delicious and comforting, but it won’t be the best of your life.
Lunch started with a portion of meat croquettes ($80 BRL, six pieces). Visually, it’s not attractive, but the fact that it’s meaty (rather than creamy) on the inside is in its favour. The croquette is good, but it won’t be the best you’ve ever had.
Just like the other main option, it does not leave any mark on your memory. The accompaniments of the tournedor lagoa (filet mignon with bacon, hearts of palm, asparagus and Prussian potatoes, R$185) were much better than the meat itself: it was without salt, without flavour.
The highlight is the potatoes and bacon, which are dry and crunchy. The asparagus was also pickled, that much was obvious – and I didn’t have the nerve to ask the waiter that question again.
Desserts include alternatives such as apfelstrudel (BRL $40), strawberries with whipped cream (BRL $40), tiramisu (BRL 41) and guava with cheese (BRL 35).
I chose strawberry because of fond memories of my childhood home-made whipped cream in the red blender. Lagoa’s took me back to that time, although I think adding a little more sugar to the cream would have helped counteract the tartness of the strawberries.
With many tables occupied by families or groups of friends sharing two or three courses, the bar is a traditional place for an after-beach beer in Rio. Just don’t expect amazing dishes.
Perhaps the best definition of the institution I heard was a few years ago, at those tables, said by one of Rio’s experienced restaurateurs: “At Bar Lagoa, the best food in the city is served.” That’s it.