Created in the 1990s, Baile Charme transformed the Viaduto Prefeito Negrão de Lima, in Madureira, into a national reference for urban black culture. Recognized as cultural heritage of Rio de Janeiro, the event remains the most famous face of the space, marked by the synchronized steps, its own aesthetic and the symbolic occupation of the city. But those who only stop by on dance days — Saturdays, from 10 p.m. — don’t see everything that happens under the viaduct: while the dance floor comes alive, other cultural activities and samba circles take place simultaneously, expanding the use and meaning of the space.
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Throughout the week, Madureira vibrates to different rhythms, mixing music, dance, creative economy, popular tradition and social actions, almost always free and open to the public. Space, once associated with abandonment and insecurity, has become a living territory, in permanent transformation.
For Ana Cê Santanna, founding partner of Companhia de Aruanda, the viaduct functions as a welcoming and meeting place, where different cultural events coexist and mutually reinforce each other. When she talks about the dynamics of space, she uses the image of a “mother’s tower”, an expression which also gives its name to one of the second-hand shops which take place under the viaduct and which symbolizes this logic of care, exchange and belonging.
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— It’s like a mother’s lap, which welcomes, hugs and where there is always room for more people — he said.
Jongo, coconut, maracatu and more
Every third Thursday of the month, from 8:30 p.m., the Companhia de Aruanda promotes the Fuzuê de Aruanda under the viaduct, a meeting of popular culture events that has jongo as its central axis, but which also brings together samba de roda, coco, maracatu, ciranda and other traditional expressions. Free and open to the public, the meeting connects memory, music and ancestry.
— For 15 years, we have organized this circle as a tool of resistance, celebration and above all meeting. Meeting with our ancestors, but also with our contemporary times and the possibility of the future. When the drums occupy this space, we reverse the logic of a place that was only passing through and transform everything into a large ancestral terreiro — explains Ana Cê.
Continued cultural occupation has helped bring life back to areas previously avoided by residents, with poor lighting and a sense of insecurity. Today, the viaduct remains in almost constant movement, functioning as a strategic meeting point in the heart of Madureira, where workers, students and residents pass daily, emphasizes Ana Cê.
In recent years, this territory has also expanded physically. With the construction of the BRT viaduct, next to Negrão de Lima, the extension of space has increased — and, with it, the possibilities for cultural, social and economic use.
— There are now two viaducts. This extension has broadened culturally and socially, allowing more movements to occur and meet – he emphasizes.
Among these movements is Samba de Rua, with the Roda de Samba do Nego Damoé, which takes place every Friday from 9 p.m. Free and open to the public, the event brings together musicians, residents and visitors around traditional samba, reinforcing the historical vocation of Madureira as the cradle of the genre. The circle has consolidated itself as one of the main outdoor samba spots in the North zone, promoting coexistence between different generations. The schedule is published on the @sambaderuarj profile.
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On Saturday, the activity starts early. Under the Negrão de Lima viaduct, on Praça das Mães, the fair organized by the NGO Colo de Mãe takes place from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. and has established itself as a space of welcome, income generation and women’s empowerment. The project is aimed at women who have suffered domestic violence, live in socially vulnerable situations or are atypical mothers, with an emphasis on the solidarity economy and sustainable practices.
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Completely free, the fair brings together a gourmet space, crafts, second-hand clothes and cultural activities. One of the main pillars of the project is the samba circle organized on site, which generates income to maintain activities and finance the training offered to participants. The circle takes place every Saturday, from 10 p.m., at the same time as the traditional Baile Charme, but in a different space. While the dance is closed, the Colo de Mãe project area is open to the public and hosts, in addition to the fair, several other cultural activities.
Around 300 women work in the space each Saturday, many of them showcasing their own brands.
The initiative is maintained through partnerships with institutions and projects such as Cristo Redentor Sustentável, Sol Artesanato, Sesc and Carandaí 25, which expand training opportunities and visibility for entrepreneurs. The reuse and customization of clothing are pillars of the proposition, reinforcing the commitment to conscious consumption and the environment.
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Created by Dailva Basílio, founder of the NGO, Colo de Mãe was born from a personal journey marked by migration, social vulnerability and overcoming domestic violence.
— This project is the story of my life. I was a single mother, living in a vulnerable situation and experiencing domestic violence. Because of my struggles and pain, I felt I had to create something to help other women, she says.
In six years, the initiative has already reached more than 20,000 women, offering courses, workshops, mentoring, conversation circles and psychological assistance.
— For many participants, the project represents dignity, financial autonomy and the possibility of providing for their family, investing in their children’s education and having their own home, — emphasizes Dailva.
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Also on Saturdays, from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Rua Francisco Batista, near the viaduct, hosts Brecholeiras, a large popular thrift store that brings together exhibitions of clothing, accessories, crafts and gastronomy. The event has become a must-see in Madureira and attracts an audience interested in conscious consumption and the creative economy. Information is available on the @brecholeirasoficial profile.
Monday rhyme battle
On Monday, from 7 p.m., the space is occupied by young people with the Battle Marginow, organized on Francisco Batista Street. Rhyming competitions bring together MCs from different neighborhoods and address topics related to daily life, identity and experiences on the outskirts, consolidating the viaduct as a territory of hip hop culture. The calendar is published on the profile @batalhamarginowoficial.
Charm, sport and more
In addition to the cultural agenda, the Madureira Viaduct is home to permanent social actions developed by the Central Única das Favelas (CUFA). On site, charm classes, football and basketball schools are offered, as well as DIY, cutting and sewing and basic computer workshops. The activities expand the role of the viaduct beyond entertainment, consolidating it as a space for training, social inclusion and access to opportunities.