Its geographical location seems to protect it: getting there is not difficult, but it is far from any highway. Anyone coming from Córdoba (or Buenos Aires) must first cross the Altas Cumbres; However, they separate from Merlo, even though there is no mountain road San Javier and Yacanto 60km from the RP14 which only has one lane per road.
This “isolation” is characteristic of the Traslasierra Valleywhose towns line the route. From north to south they start with the town of Mina Clavero and go downhill – and “getting smaller” – as the RP 14 heads into the mountains.
At the end of the 90s, several people from Buenos Aires chose small San Javier to settle there and live a different life away from the big city. Currently, the majority of the almost 3,000 residents are immigrants from large cities.
The city has grown – it has 2,600 accommodation options – but it also attracts tourists who are compatible with this original charm. In reality they are two cities separated by a stream but connected by the same peculiarity. So, San Javier and Yacanto strive to continue to be a “country town.” and to preserve its essence with a tourism model based on local identity, respect for the environment and community life. There, the circular and family economy is taken into account in all types of ventures.
In this mountainous area, life is calm and quiet amidst the native forest that covers 80% of its territory and the mountains that protect the beauty of the valley. Beyond this city at the foot of Champaquí It is one of the main starting points for adventure tourism in the province and its trekking and mountain biking trails are highly recommended. This year, San Javier and Yacanto received the award given by UN Tourism as part of the upgrade programwith the aim of supporting destinations in achieving the standards of the international Best Tourism Villages network.
A must-see is the urban cultural trail, which traces the history of the city through its architectural heritage.
The picturesque historic center can be explored on your own QR codes on its walls. You can only enter the church, the oratory and the historical Hotel Yacanto – which the English railway workers built – and the “Meta vivir” dance floor.
It is also possible to do this with a guide. It is a walk of about 4 km and two hours that starts from the main square and where the works of famous people who lived in San Javier and Yacanto stand out.
The starting point is the old house of Arts and craftswhere the first school operated, founded by María de la Plaza, niece and heiress of President Victorino de La Plaza (1914-1916). We continue through the house of Poet Núñeza building from 1830 that also housed a school and the post office.
The old warehouse is in front of the square Don Lucio Jimenez which had the only fuel pump. And in the same block is the late 19th century house where the great Argentine painter lived. Luis Tessandoria place where he received friends and artists such as Fernando Fader and Bernardo de Quiroz.
The San Francisco Javier Church, inaugurated in 1922, has a peculiarity: the altar and the clock in the bell tower are English.
You can reach it a little further former House of Culturewhich now houses the Don Carlos Ferreira Historical Museum and the María de la Plaza Library. It was the secondary school of San Javier, but also a butcher shop and a warehouse. When the meat arrived, a red flag was said to have been raised to warn customers.
The Christensen Houseknown as Las Araucarias, is another relevant point. Construction began in 1918 by an official of the Al Pacífico Railway Company, who also built the railway company Hotel Yacanto. Between 1920 and 1926, the agronomist Juan Carlos Christensen lived there and introduced the cultivation of potatoes and tobacco to the region.
Another stop is at Ceballos Hall where there was a general store, a petrol pump and a taxi service that took English tourists there from Villa Dolores Hotel Yacanto. A little further, on the side of the road, is the Yacanto Oratory from the early 20th century. The tour ends with the 100th anniversary Hotel Yacanto (1924) with a 9-hole golf course designed by architect Carlos Blasi in 1930 and considered one of the most beautiful in the country.
In front of the church on the other side of the square is Mario’s Bar, known as Mario’s grocery store.
It’s a simple place with plastic chairs where customers enjoy their vermouth (the “Super Mario”, a cocktail based on Fernet and Cinzano) or a glass of wine.
Mario Giménez has been running the place for 35 years. Everyone knows him. He prepares Milanese sandwiches and in the same bowl has a feed store, opened long ago at the request of gauchos on horseback. “Thank God we work well from Monday to Monday,” he says.
The bar is family owned and although it was founded as a men’s paradise, today many tourists come to visit a typical mountain bar. “There are days when I don’t come early and people pull out the chairs, sit down and wait for me, or they shop somewhere else and sit here,” he laughs.
Located a thousand meters above sea level on the slopes of the Sierras Grandes, the city offers you the opportunity to discover its natural heritage, medicinal plants and fauna. There are a large number of hiking trails; some are self-guided and low difficulty and others require a guide.
An information for mountaineering lovers: San Javier and Yacanto have this more direct access to Champaquíthe highest mountain in the province of Córdoba.
The closest options to the square include the hiking trail Ambrosio El Pozo Gorge The path begins by descending to the stream over a wooden bridge and then continues over natural roundabouts to ponds where brown trout can be seen. Meanwhile, the Cruz path is accessed via RP14 and ends at the top where you can enjoy the views of the valley and vineyards. From there you can see the volcanoes of San Luis at sunset.
The Los Algarrobos hiking trail and the Achiras circular trail are other alternatives. There are opportunities for bird watching, photo safaris or simply contemplation among the streams that flow down the edge of the mountain range, the gorges and the mountain herb-scented forests.
Wine tourism has become another attraction in the region in recent years. Thanks to the climate and water quality. One of the first was The nobleman of San Javier, Aráoz de Lamadrid continued.
Today there are eight, and some like Piedra Mora offer sensory experiences, lunch and dinner, and the chance to sip wine at sunset.
USEFUL DATA
Where to eat
Mountain Coffee Specialty coffees, artisanal pastries. Open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.
La Juana and you Camino al Champaquí, 800 meters from Plaza de San Javier. Reservations are not made.
producers
Verbena Tambo goat farm. Artisanal production of cheese and goat’s milk sweets. Cheese and wine tastings. Guided tours.
Handmade Mampeca ice cream. Aromas of the mountains with fresh fruits. T: 3544 551550
Excursions
EcochampaquYo Alternative tourism providers. Excursions, trekking and hiking.
Planet Sierra Sustainable Tourism. Hikes. Personalized activities.
Where to sleep
Tantasiña Cabins mountain suites at the foot of Champaquí Hill. For people over 15 years old.
Cabañas La Hondonada accommodation next to the stream. Homemade and natural breakfast.
Shopping
Barro Store decoration, furniture and lighting.
El Lindero wine shop, regional delicacies.
Los Olivos Sara Griskans arts and crafts store
Craftsmen and artists
Victoria Mazzini ceramicist. Unique and original pieces.
Sergio Paolucci / Adriana Lauro Ceramics, workshop of handmade tableware, majolica and decorative objects.
Ecofair In the Plaza de San Javier, Wednesdays from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. On long weekends and in high season also on Fridays. Selling local products.
About The Author
