A week ago, it was very tense in a small restaurant in Los Rosales. Juan Carlos Ochando and Elena Pérez They were preparing their bags to go there Michelin party It was scheduled to take place in Malaga, to which they were invited as representatives … to UchanduHe worked in the Seville area. They knew they had some chance of getting a star because they were told, “If they invite you, it’s for a reason, most of the time the distinction falls,” but the truth is they went without aspirations. “We were going to enjoy the experience and, most of all, get back to the colleagues we worked with years ago,” Juan Carlos Ochando explains to Gurmé. But everything changed on Tuesday night when the name of his restaurant was announced during the announcement of the list of nominees New Michelin stars.
since then It’s all gone. News, calls, messages, interviews, bookings… but the key is to know if the food at Ushandu is as good as it was before this distinction was achieved. To verify this, Gurmé has traveled to Los Rosales to taste their amazing menu and tell them about the experience. Before delving into the details of each dish, a quick assessment can be made: it is true that the establishment and the service are very modest, but they also have high-quality cuisine. Because even though they now have to consolidate shifts, and are actually looking for staff for the room, the fact is that they work in Ushandu almost every day with three people. This is how they managed to get the Michelin Guide to notice them and give them a star. It will be for a reason.
The first thing to point out is that the building exists About 40 minutes from Seville It is located on one of the main streets in Los Rosales, although you have to be careful to find it because it does not have a big sign and is not marked. Facilities, as we said, are modest and small, which is why the interior They only have six tables per service. And for those accustomed to star-studded restaurants with the utmost sophistication, clarify in advance to avoid misunderstandings: Don’t expect high-quality cutlery and glassware, nor elite room service. In Ochando, good cuisine, direct and close treatment of Juan Carlos and Elena, good work of their young assistants and enjoyment prevail. A culinary experience without tricks.
Elena Pérez and Juan Carlos Ochando, at the door of the Ochando restaurant
Ochando’s amazing menu: 5 starters and 8 courses for 82 euros
Let’s start with what’s important: the food. he Great list It starts with Choice of five appetizers Which Juan Carlos Ochando brings to the table practically in succession, and when they are all on the tablecloth, he briefly explains what they are. First of all there is Seasonal soupIn this case, Consommé brothVery good, strong for warming up on these occasions when temperatures drop. We pass to San Simon cheese and quince panna cottaSmall bites with soft contrasts eaten with a spoon. The first density comes with Squid pie with onionswhere Juan Carlos’s hand in the kitchen was already beginning to be appreciated.
And it might end up being appetizers Most striking Because it comes together in a cup filled with popcorn. the first, Steak rice cone If they sold them in boxes, customers would surely take them three by three. The second, Smoked sausage biscuitsWhich is remarkable because if you close your eyes, you think you’re eating a sandwich rather than just a bun.
Boxes in which flavor reigns supreme
It is the role of the dishes themselves. We start with Oysters with sherry maryWhich gives it an Andalusian touch. The molasses comes seasoned with many of the ingredients of the legendary Bloody Mary, but instead of vodka, here they opt for sherry. From there it goes to Pistachios, tomatoes, raisins and green garlicWhere Juan Carlos Ochando begins to play with textures and flavors. It comes third Asparagus, spinach and egg ravioli.
Then now It goes to fish and meat. This section begins with Squid dance and fried green pepperwhich is served with very thinly sliced squid like pasta and with the sauce that accompanies it perfectly… although the truth is that it will serve as an accompaniment to almost any food. Then we move on to a very eye-catching dish, the casserole Tuna meatballs with goat stew. It is perhaps the most contrasting in flavours, because the tuna in the meatballs is combined with the strength of the goat sauce we eat in the spring. In fact, as Juan Carlos Ochando showed us, when it is white cap season, they are also present on the board. The next detail is Pickled rooster tabletwhere the play of gelatinous textures of the topping stands out against the background of the pickled soup.
The last part begins with “Pescado,” according to the sign on the menu, which on this occasion was “Pescado.” Perfectly cooked mullet with Seville yellow accompaniment Which Juan Carlos is serving at the moment, but he leaves it on the table under the recommendation “In case you want to serve more, this is what I will do…”. Before moving on to sweets, The salty finish is a majestic oxtailProbably the best we’ve eaten so far.
The kitchen hand is also noticeable in Dessertswhich concludes the round meal Bacon with orange and yogurtfirst, and with Four small ones (With oil) later.
The business idea of spouses Juan Carlos Ochado and Elena Pérez arose out of a family need. Because they were close to his parents, they chose to open a restaurant in the city, in Los Rosales, and through humility and good work they were able to do so. Attracting the attention of the prestigious Michelin Guide.
From now on, but always maintaining the privacy that led them to success, They will try to refine the details and improve their gastronomic presentation. For example, with what is happening to wines since the present time There is no pairing option due to lack of space. To have a large wine cellar. However, it is worth visiting Los Rosales. Eating Michelin-starred fine dining and, moreover, doing so for just €82 isn’t something you can count on every day.