This is the reason why cannelloni in Catalonia are only eaten on December 26.

In Catalonia, December 26 is not a day like any other. East Sant Estèvefestive day in Catalonia and the Balearic Islands, and the moment when half of the Catalan population sits down to eat with a dish that, for many, is part of the DNA of Christmas: cannelloni. They are prepared in almost every home, family versions are repeated and passed down from generation to generation and it is assumed that it “has always been done”.

But when we look through history, we discover something unexpected: cannelloni is not a medieval Catalan dishnor an ancient tradition linked to Boxing Day. In fact, this custom is much more recent and, as is often the case, it is full of cultural nuances, foreign influences and a touch of national ingenuity.

From Carolingian counties to the Catalan table: why the 26th is a public holiday

To understand cannelloni, you have to start with Sant Esteve. Catalonia and the Balearic Islands are the only two communities where this day is a public holiday. And this has a very specific historical explanation.

In the High Middle Agesthe old Catalan counties were politically dependent on the Carolingian Empire and religiously archbishopric of Narbonneunlike the rest of the peninsula, which looked towards Toledo. In this Carolingian tradition, after a major religious holiday – such as Christmas – the next day was not a working day. It was not a public holiday, but it was considered a day of rest for go homebecause meeting the family required long and complicated journeys.

This medieval habit survived and, over time, December 26 came to be considered a public holiday. Nothing to do with gastronomy originally: it was pure family logistics. Over the centuries, this break has become a perfect excuse to continue partying… and eating.

From harvested rice to “Catalan-style” cannelloni: the turning point of the 19th and 20th centuries

For a long time, the traditional dish of Sant Esteve was not cannelloni. In fact, Catalan cookbooks from the 19th century they don’t mention at all that they ate cannelloni that day. The usual thing was a use of rice made with leftover Christmas roast.

So what happened? The story points to a clearly external origin:

The big turning point came at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, when French chefs who ran fashionable restaurants in Barcelona, ​​such as Justin’s wave Golden House— they began to fill them with roast meat. And here the true Catalan seal appears.

THE roast meat It’s not exactly a roast: it’s a technique that combines deep browning and slow cooking in a casserole dish, with a stir-fry, vegetables and a splash of wine. A very tasty, very clean base that completely transformed the filling. The arrival of bechamel and the cheese gratin finished the dish as we know it today.

Catalan cannelloni were therefore born from a Mediterranean mix: Italy provided the pasta, France the technique… and Catalonia, the garnish and the enthusiasm.

1911: the year cannelloni arrived in every home

For decades, cannelloni remained a restaurant dish. The reason? The pasta was fresh, difficult to make at home and imported from Italy.

Everything has changed in 1911when a Barcelona businessman began marketing the plates of dried cannelloni which we still use today. This simple advance democratized the dish: from the bourgeoisie to the most modest families, everyone could prepare it. And Sant Esteve has become the ideal date for this, reusing the remains of the great Christmas meal.

Over time, the idea of ​​“use plate” became a tradition, and tradition became an identity. And even though today we no longer depend on leftovers to make good cannelloni, the custom remains intact. So much so that it is estimated that Every Christmas, around four million cannelloni are consumed in Catalonia.