In 2023, Lisa Warren, a freelance writer living in the Brooklyn borough of New York, began shopping for an engagement ring ahead of an expected proposal. She wanted something minimalist, but also striking.
Nothing seemed perfect until she discovered bezel settings, a style that surrounds the gemstone with a continuous edge of metal. She sent her then-boyfriend a short list of bezeled solitaires that seemed “clean and timeless, but not traditional,” she said.
He popped the question in December 2023 with a hexagonal bezel-set diamond, on a gold ring. At first glance, the stone appears round, but reveals subtle geometry when observed up close, she said. “I’ve come to love the way the bezel makes the gold look like it’s part of the design itself.”
A growing number of people about to get engaged are turning to set rings. For what? “Bezel diamonds sit right at the tension point between modern and vintage,” said Emily Carmeli, a cultural strategist and professor at New York’s Parsons School of Design, “which is why they seem so relevant right now.” (It doesn’t hurt that Taylor Swift’s engagement ring has a bezel setting, either.)
Part of the appeal may be the sturdiness of the setting, compared to something like four prongs. “I live in New York, so I walk around the city, take the subway and keep my hands busy,” Warren said. “I feel safer knowing the diamond is encapsulated. I would be afraid a prong would come off.”
Many brides still want big gemstones, said Steph Mazuera, a jewelry designer in New York, and want them to look secure. “Having a big stone doesn’t mean leading a delicate life: walking the dog, carrying groceries, doing household chores,” he said. “A scope lets you do all of this without worrying.”
“The bezel is classic and chic,” said Leigh Plessner, CEO and creative director of jewelry brand Catbird.
Catbird launched a kitten engagement ring about three years ago, and it’s now one of its best-selling items. The style is growing in popularity, in part because it pairs well with other minimalist trends, including solid, chunkier wedding rings and simple silhouettes, Plessner said.
“Glasses are elegant and intentional,” said Ashley Booth, a Philadelphia-based jewelry designer. “There’s no noise, just clean lines and beautiful stone.”
TikTok helped accelerate the trend, with designers posting demo videos that saw high engagement. “Trends are constantly evolving, and technology has only accelerated that process,” said David Steinmetz, a New York jeweler.
But there is also an element of the past that contributes to the style’s popularity. Paige Rubin, a fashion historian and founder of Taste Studio, which sells luxury vintage products, said the bezel “aligns perfectly with the Deco design — clean edges, metallics and graphic lines.” She noted that art deco jewelry became popular after World War I, in a move of glamor and exuberance.
Bezels can be full, half-set, split or even floating – and, if the bezel wall is thick enough, smaller stones can be set directly into it. “I love half-glasses: you get security and more light coming into the stone,” Booth said. “I’ve also seen layered glasses that extend the line from the metal to the ring.”
Steinmetz believes that bezel rings have become more desirable for three reasons: personal expression, social media and cost. Because glasses use more metal, they allow for more distinct shapes and greater customization. He also noticed an increase in the use of synthetic diamonds, which are cheaper than natural stones, freeing up budget for bolder designs using more metal.
“Diamonds and sapphires are great for glasses because they are hard,” Booth said. “I use primarily 14k gold and platinum, both of which are very durable. Softer stones, like opal or aquamarine, can be set in a bezel, but you have to be careful.”
Melissa Moynihan, the brand’s trends analyst, said part of the bezel’s appeal comes from its width. “What makes the scope so versatile is its ability to accommodate different fits,” he said.
More and more celebrities are also opting for glasses. Taylor Swift’s engagement ring, featuring a diamond from an old mine, has already generated requests “inspired” by the model.
“We also recently saw Lily Collins’ emerald in rose gold and Rihanna’s round diamond in yellow gold,” Moynihan said — both rings have bezel settings.
“Any celebrity who opts for a ring set with a kitten will inspire others to choose one too,” said Kindred Lubeck of Artifex Fine Jewelry in New York, who designed Swift’s ring. “We love something more the more we see it.”
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