The Lanin volcano It is not the highest mountain in Argentina, nor the most difficult mountain to reach the summit, but it is certainly the first name that comes to mind as a destination when you venture into mountaineering. “The Lanín have one special magnetism and I think that’s because of its silhouette, which is an almost perfect cone. It looks like it was drawn by a child, with clear contours and a snow-capped peak,” he says THE NATION Julian Insarralde (44 years old), one of the most experienced mountain guides in our country, who has already lost track of how many times he has climbed the legendary mountain in almost 25 years of experience, and so many times as an amateur.
“It also has another special feature that becomes one Advantage: Unlike other peaks, it is not at a high altitude, so it does not require and allows an acclimatization process Climb in two days. “You can plan an expedition over a long weekend, and that is unthinkable in other mountains,” explains Insarralde, who not only accompanies climbers to Lanín, but also makes trips to Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro in Africa, the foot of Everest and other important peaks in America. He also teaches ice climbing courses.
After the pandemic, tourism experienced a process of growth and experiences such as achievement the top of the Lanín volcanoin the province of Neuquén, were among those that became a worthwhile experience that multiplied the number of visitors. Recently, the summit regained notoriety for being the scene of the chef’s decompensation Christian Petersen in full.
In the vast majority of mountains, the difficulty of climbing and the almost certain harshness of the climate are compounded by the need to cope with heights, something that Lanín has to offer with its 3776 meters above sea levelit’s not a problem. “The challenge is to climb at a high gradient and consistently for many hours, but in return there is no challenge of altitude. In all the years I have climbed it and in the hundreds of expeditions, I have never had a single case of pulmonary edema or altitude sickness, which is very common in high mountains,” emphasizes Insarralde.
Access to Lanín is possible all year round, although this occurs in high season between October and December because it is the time when the cold is not so severe and the mountain still has snow, which then melts as summer advances and exposes the rock. “At this time the climb is a little more pleasant because when there is snow you can choose the path and zigzag at your own discretion without having to go along the path that we call Canaleta. In January, February and March the climate is less severe because it is generally not so cold, but the terrain is much steeper and rougher, which increases the difficulty a little,” he says. David Werner 41 years old, another guide with more than 15 years of experience accompanying mountaineers to the volcano.
The only time of year when a additional risk It is the end of December when the heat causes the snow to melt and stones to fall loose and fall. Therefore, it is necessary to take a path parallel to the so-called gutter to avoid impacts and travel with greater caution.
He traditional ascent It takes place over two days and is part of the Río Turbio Sectional, near Lake Tromenabout 70 kilometers from Junín de los Andes, where visitors register and leave a record of their entry, which is checked by park rangers who also carry out a strict control of the material and create one Capacity of 100 people daily including guides and tourists. “The regulation that regulates the number of people and stipulates that the expeditions last two days and not three days is a definition of the national park authorities. What they are aiming for is to limit the number of people on the mountain and in addition add a difficulty quota to regulate the number of tourists. Previously you could do the expedition in several days, which made it more friendly and not so extreme,” says Insarralde, explaining that there is also the possibility of climbing in “Non-Stop” mode in about 15 hours there and back, making it clear that this is an alternative for mountaineers with experience and a particular sporting condition.
The first day includes between four and six hour walkdepending on the physical condition of the group, a hostile climb that foreshadows what the second day will bring, which is really intense. that night becomes the basis and preparations are being made for the final climb, and for this there are three alternatives: either a mountain hut called CAJA, after the acronym of the Andean club Junín de los Andes, in a tent or in domes, which offer more comfort. “He first day is what makes it possible for you Measure the group and each of its members. Understand whether they are fit for the second day. Generally, it is a joint decision with the other person, as they almost always decide on their own if they are unable to do so. However, sometimes it is necessary to make a decision even though the other person disagrees. People come with the idea of climbing Lanín, but for us the priority is priority May they go and return healthy to the base,” says Werner.
The second day is the day of truth. Generally they are about 15 hours of constant and challenging climbingand the way you approach it depends on the season and climate, which experts say is the deciding factor. “Today the weather forecast is pretty accurate, so you know what to expect, even if the mountains sometimes fail you some surprise. So far this season I have made seven trips and in six of them we reached the summit without any problems,” says Insarralde, but clarifies that the characteristics of the group will determine whether he can take a little more risk and manage the final climb, even if the weather is not ideal. “I had groups of well-prepared people and we were able to reach the summit in wind speeds of 70 km/h.” This is what is being measured at the moment; It is important to know how to “read people” and make a decision based on that,” the guide explains.
Werner agrees with Insarralde’s view and believes that a good guide is someone who follows the protocols but at the same time has the ability to assess the climbers’ abilities. To do this, they carry out a preliminary survey that enables them to understand people’s preparation and sports history who face the challenge, but the first day is the one that ultimately determines what happens next: “I had someone who was convinced to progress beyond his lack of preparation, arguing that he had a ‘good head’ and a lot of determination. I had to explain to him that attitude is very important, but that he will never meet the necessary prerequisite of walking 1,600 meters uphill on the first day and almost 2,800 on the second. When your legs say that you can’t If you can get ahead, then that’s the case.” No head worth it.
Although the precautions and care of the guides are important during the trip, since all four tourists are accompanied by an experienced person, the inconveniences do not disappear since it is a demanding activity in the middle of the mountain. “In the event of an accident Parking attendants are deployed“Because we all constantly communicate with VHF devices and they are the ones who carry out a rescue or, if necessary, an evacuation by helicopter, even though we guides who are in the mountains make us all available for the mission,” explains Werner.
The guides interviewed agree that having them is one of the most important requirements for climbing appropriate equipment. Mandatory items include appropriate clothing, a layered coat and a mountain-ready jacket, as well as proper footwear. And in addition to a helmet, a pickaxe for use in snowy areas and crampons; The latter are spiked metal devices that attach to mountain boots to provide grip and traction on slippery terrain such as hard snow or ice, a situation that occurs near the summit in winter and high season, as well as all year round.
There is a prize for the lucky ones who make it to the top an unrepeatable postcard which is associated with the satisfaction of what has been achieved: the Chilean volcanoes Llaima and Villarrica seem within reach, while the lakes Huechulafquen and Paimún shine at the base.
Lanín is almost always the first big mountain for new climbers and an experience that is etched in the memory, but it is important to approach it in the right way, without underestimating the effort and effort with the right preparation and the right resources. “It’s not the Tres Picos in the Sierra de la Ventana, nor the Champaquí in Córdoba, nor even one of the intermediate peaks in Mendoza. It’s the Lanín.” an unrepeatable experiencebut at the same time it requires a very big effort and it is important not to underestimate it,” says Werner, who claims that he prefers the one who hires him to get angry without reaching the summit, when the conditions do not allow it, but always healthy and safe.
Insarralde concludes: “The mountain decides beyond your physical condition and any planning.” If Lanín wants you to go up, you go up. “This is the mountain.”
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