There is a town in Europe where it is always Christmas. In the beautiful and the chaotic Naples They have been making “presepis” (mangeres) for centuries. Although the first nativity scene dates back to the one depicted on Christmas Day in 1223 Saint Francis of AssisiThis … The Italian destination can boast of being the cradle of its most artistic form, which has survived to this day.
It was in the 15th century that a unique style was created with figures that already featured an exquisite level of detail, dressed in high quality fabrics and great ornamentation, but it was in the 18th century that it reached its greatest splendor. SO, forming a nursery has become a form of leisure and collection among Neapolitan elites, but poorer households quickly joined this tradition, further increasing its popularity.
Currently, there is not a hotel, business or monumental building in the city that does not exhibit a nativity scene, nor a tourist who does not wander its most famous street in search of an original work for their own home. In the Via San Gregorio Armenolocated in the historic center of Naples, dozens of crowded stands offer all kinds of figurines.
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One of the most famous workshop is that of Di Virgilioa family business that has been creating authentic works of art since 1820. Over the years, four generations of this family have shaped the typical Neapolitan shepherds in the style of the 18th century. Crossing the door of the main store, your gaze turns directly to the wall of fame, a space in which dozens of photos hang in which its current owner, Gennaro, proudly poses with different celebrities who have acquired one of his figurines: movie stars like Sofia Loren either Robert de Niroto footballers like Cristiano Ronaldo either Popes like Francis or Ratzinger.
In addition, they have a small gallery where you can admire exclusive pieces priced around 500 euros and complete nativity scenes that can reach astronomical figures of up to 40,000 eurosaccording to Gennaro, although it is normal that a small one costs around 6,000 euros. The figures, which also represent scenes from daily life, are particularly fragile, since the body is made of a wire frame covered with tow or plant fibers, while the limbs are made of wood and the head is made of polychrome terracotta with eyes made of vitreous paste.
The workshop wall of fame
There are crèches up to 40,000 euros
Another of the workshops in which you can see their artisans working is that of Bottega Ferrignowhere the tradition extends to the fifth generation. Marco Ferrigno, its current owner, is considered one of the great contemporary artists of the Neapolitan nursery.
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How to get there: There are direct flights with different airlines from Madrid, Barcelona and other cities in Spain. The price starts at 100 euros.
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Where to stay: The Eurostars Hotel Excelsior is an institution in Naples, a building in which many films have been filmed and in whose rooms celebrities from all over the world have slept. To highlight the views of Vesuvius offered by its terrace. Price per night from 135 euros.
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To eat: Very close to Via San Gregorio Armeno, on Via Franceso del Giudice, is the Locanda del Grifo restaurant, a gastronomic space where you can taste some of the exquisite Neapolitan specialties, such as Margherita pizza or Genoese pasta.
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To keep in mind: during the winter months it gets dark at 4:30 p.m., so if you want to visit its main places with light, you must get up early to take advantage of the hours of sunlight.
The influence of these crèches quickly spread throughout Europe. In the case of Spain, its introduction came from the hand of Charles III –he was king of Naples from 1734 to 1759–, who showed a quite remarkable artistic sensitivity for them, sometimes participating in their design and production in the Capodimonte factory. The king and his wife María Amalia of Saxony introduced it into their palaces, creating a special room to accommodate the one known as the “Prince’s Nativity Scene” in which local customs and clothing were represented.
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