In autumn and winter, a good part of the farms and farms of the Jerez countryside are transformed into a hive of people around a table where, accompanied by must, there is a dish that is enjoyed surrounded, as the cliché says, by an incomparable setting: an infinity of vineyards. This is the country garlica recipe or an excuse to bring together family and friends who, also around Christmas, take advantage of the good weather in this region of the south of the peninsula to have a good time of trust and complicity. In fact, it is one of the most deeply rooted traditions in this region of the province of Cádiz, when wineries and ventas celebrate the arrival of mosto, the young wine of the year that serves as a prelude to the famous sherry.
And it is in this context that the country garlicalso called spicy garlic or vine garlica humble and powerful dish that constitutes the gastronomic soul of the region during these months. This recipe is not just a thick soup, but the epitome of subsistence cooking that has energized generations of day laborers. Its roots lie in the farms and farms surrounding the town, where agricultural workers prepared it to combat the first cold weather while carrying out work pruning the vines. Although some studies suggest a possible Muslim origin, the truth is that it has established itself as an inseparable symbol of rural life and wine culture in Marco de Jerez.
He local gastronomic calendar The month of November is marked by particular importance, often coinciding with festivities such as that of San Andrés, where it is commonly said that the must is now the wine. It is from this date that the starting signal is given for country garlic to shine more intensely on the menus of establishments that serve this flagship dish historically linked to the land, making it a culinary heritage passed down from mothers to daughters with special affection over the years. The magic of this dish also lies in the extreme simplicity of its ingredients, all basic and economical, typical of a harvest environment.
The fundamental basis consists of telera bread or village bread set, preferably a few days, which gives the necessary texture. To this are added the garlic, green peppers And tomatoes ripe tomatoes, conveniently called “vine tomatoes”, a small, tasty variety that was traditionally grown next to grape vines. The preparation ritual is as important as the end result and is preferably done “the old-fashioned way”, using traditional hands and tools rather than modern machines. You start by crushing the garlic with salt in a clay basinthen add the chopped peppers and tomatoes. The use of clay is not accidental, because moistening the container with hot water beforehand enhances the flavor and aroma of the puree which will serve as the basis of the stew.
Once the vegetable base is well crushed with the wooden pestle, it is time to add the chopped bread and the extra virgin olive oil. The final step is to slowly pour boiling water over the mixture, stirring constantly until it reaches the thickness desired by whoever is preparing it. The result should be a dense, creamy and comforting soupwhich is generally left to rest for a few minutes under a cloth so that the aromas settle before being served. The presentation of this country delicacy preserves its community purpose, often being served in the same clay basin where it was prepared to be shared among diners.
It is a dish that highlights its humble origins at all times and strengthens social bonds during gatherings of friends or clubs, where the essence of the dish is truly palpable. It is common for the surface to be smoothed with a final spray of olive oil before serving it to the table, offering a bright and appetizing appearance. Of course, no country garlic experience is complete without its traditional accompaniments, which provide the necessary contrasts in texture and freshness. It is almost obligatory to serve it with fresh radishwhose spicy and crunchy touch cleanses the palate after the hot density of the soup. Sometimes strips of raw green pepper or even stronger ingredients such as hard-boiled eggs or ham are also added, depending on the local or familiar variation being tasted.
Young wine to accompany
The must-have garlic pairing is undoubtedly a pitcher of seasonal must. This young wine, which retains a slight haze and primary grape aromas, offers the perfect acidity to balance the flavor of the garlic and oil. The combination of the hot soup with the fresh must creates a festival of sensations which defines the unmissable season of Jerez, a phenomenon that unites wine production with tourism and gastronomy and which, moreover, is celebrated in countless farms or “ventas” of this Cádiz countryside surrounded by vineyards of the inimitable sherry grapesfarms which also attract the attention of newbies in the matter with a small red flag on the door indicating that garlic and must are served that day.
For those who want to live this experience in an authentic way, the “Ruta del Mosto” offers a visit to warehouses, wineries and small taverns, especially in the Barrio Alto and the surrounding areas of Jerez. Places that open their doors to offer this book of traditional recipes in an environment steeped in local culture. Because beyond pure food, the tradition of country garlic Not only does it not disappear, but it attracts more people each winter wanting to eat and drink with delicious sunshine on their faces and scenery that’s hard to beat. A dish cooked and served in a clay basin as a sign of identity and celebration, modest and joyful, which defines the history of Sherry.
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