The recent decision by the National Health Surveillance Agency (Anvisa) to ban two substances used in gel polishes, TPO and DMPT, has raised doubts among professionals and consumers who use this method to trim their nails. This measure, published at the end of October, which is in line with European Union standards, should not cause panic, but requires attention when choosing products.
TPO, or diphenylphosphine oxide, and DMPT, also known as dimethyltoluylamine (DMTA), are classified in Europe under CMR 1B, a category that includes chemicals that are considered carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to human reproduction based on evidence from animal studies.
“TPO is classified as reproductive toxicant, while DMPT is classified as a probable carcinogen,” explains dermatologist Marianna Hafner, of Einstein Israelita Hospital.
This indicates a potential risk to human health, although these effects have not yet been proven in clinical studies.
“The research was conducted in rodents with higher doses and long periods of exposure to these substances, unlike what happens with humans in their routine life. Therefore, more work is needed to confirm any direct relationship between exposure to these substances and damage to health, but Anvisa has chosen to act preventively in the face of these potential risks,” Hafner analyzes.
These two substances act as photocatalysts, reacting with UV or LED light to harden the enamel and ensure the resistant finish we know. This process is called photopolymerization, and when it is not performed correctly, it can leave residue on the nails. This residue can come into contact with the skin or be inhaled.
“In small quantities or intermittent use, the risk is low. However, chronic exposure, as is the case especially with professionals who handle these products frequently, can lead to cumulative effects in the body, increasing the risk of cell mutations, increasing the possibility of cancer, affecting the hormonal system, and damaging fertility,” warns dermatologist Glaus Eco, of the Brazilian Society of Regional Dermatology in São Paulo (SBD).
Other risks of gel nail polish
Experts warn that this technique can cause mechanical damage to the nail plate, the visible part of the nail, which can become thinner and more brittle with repeated use of the product. This occurs, primarily, due to aggressive removal of nail polish, which weakens the nail structure.
Another interesting point is frequent exposure to ultraviolet radiation during drying. Although it involves small doses, it may slightly increase your risk of skin cancer over time.
There is also the possibility of allergic contact dermatitis, which is usually caused by acrylate in the nail polish formula, resulting in lesions that can be limited to the nails or spread to other areas of the body.
Care to adopt
Dermatologist SBD advises you to look for beauty salons with good ventilation to avoid exposure to fumes and odors. “It is important to evaluate whether professionals are using personal protective equipment, such as masks and gloves, as well as beware of products that do not have labels, do not contain manufacturer information, or are very cheap,” Eco adds.
It’s also important to get into the habit of reading nail polish ingredients. According to the Anvisa website, prohibited substances may appear with the following names on the packaging:
TPO
- Diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide;
- trimethylbenzoyldiphenylphosphine oxide;
- di(2,4,6-trimethylbenzole)phosphine oxide;
- Phosphine oxide, diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl);
- 2,4,6-Trimethylbenzoyldiphenylphosphine oxide;
- (diphenylphosphoryl)(2,4,6-trimethylphenyl)methanone;
- (Diphenylphosphoryl) (mesetyl)methanone.
dmpt or dtma
- N,N-dimethyl-p-toluidine;
- Dimethyltoylamine;
- Dimethyl-4-toluidine;
- N,N-dimethyl-p-toluidine;
- 4-Methyl-N,N-dimethylaniline;
- 4-Dimethylaminotoluene.
The agency’s decision states that as of the publication of the standard on October 29, the manufacture, importation and granting of new registrations or notifications for products containing TPO or DMPT are prohibited.
The agency also specified that companies and institutions have a period of 90 days to stop selling or using nail polish that is already available on the market. “After this period, all registrations and notifications for these products will be canceled by Anvisa. The responsible companies must collect those that remain in stores and distributors,” a note posted on the website said.
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