The old abandoned basement has been transformed into a hidden bar with a piano, bandoneon and spirits, such as cocktails and sparkling wine, run by bartender Santiago Arenas. They named him Population. To get there, you pass through a traditional inn with a limestone floor and red and white checkered tablecloths named Oliveira still life.
In the heart of western Buenos Aires, very close to Avelanda ParkIt has been operating since 1943 as one of the favorite gastronomic destinations for residents and those who come from beyond the borders of Floresta and Mataderos. From former Argentine President Arturo Frondisi to tango singer Ariel Ardet, they have passed through there.
The bar’s ceiling is a treasure trove topped with pictures of Tita Merillo, Evita, Koka Sarli and Moria Kazan. “They raise women’s flags at different historical moments,” says Christian Diaz Gattuso, the place’s creator. “I always wanted to be a leader, I have no bosses. Through diving and snorkeling I got this pearl,” he says metaphorically.
Near the wooden bar, sitting in the chairs surrounding the low tables, you can leaf through a collection of old books, and look at Ignacio Corsini’s photographs and centuries-old sheet music, one of which gave the subway’s 1930s tango its name, the pupolacha. They are traces of an ideal past.
Located in one of the six legendary corners of Oliveira and Remedios avenues, with hoods, radios and posters from other eras, the flavors it offers are very Creole and their texture is sonic, from basic to four.
In this place where there are worn-out Thonet chairs for about 60 people, near old-growth trees and a few steps from one of the largest green lungs in the city, coffee The sun, Austerity neighborhood supplies. The hook to which they attached a rope to lower the wine barrels into the tank still hangs today.
In the 1970s he was a nicknamed figure The tano Who took charge of the place where the secret pools were held in addition to providing the minutes and coffee. the The current name originated in the 1980s when Oliveira’s still lifes passed into Elba’s hands, Since January 2023, it has been managed by Diaz Gattuso.
Now, as then, the dishes are traditional and homemade, and the portions are generous, with their own touch and without arrogant pretensions.
The relationship with its current owner began when, during the difficult times of the pandemic, Diaz Gattuso created the catering company, Varikay, with his cousin Maxi Luque, in homage to one of the Cirque du Soleil shows.
During quarantine, with their pizza party proposal rising from 80 orders to six, the partners began marketing “Love Boxes,” a box with an appetizer, entree, dessert and punch to distract from the quarantine craze with their flavors.
This former student of the Gato Dumas School had studied theater with Lorena Vega, and restoration of cultural assets with Gabriel Chami. Cultural director and tireless gastronomeone day in August 2020, he rode through the still life on his red bicycle Yeo, Al-Zanizi The young people and the new heirs gave the restaurant a box containing the three units of its products. The hosts were excited and the idea of making came about pop up: Integrating his gastronomy (chopped food and beer) with the cuisine invited into the building. They set up tables outside and created a festival called “Vermouth and veredita” and they did it Well, they decided to stick together.
“We started on weekends, then added Friday, then Thursday. After that, we enabled the rest of the days,” says Christian, who managed his business. “After a month, we moved our small business and started working to collaborate on the reconstruction.” Yeo For two years, during which time the city government declared it a landmark bar. He says so Yeo, Al-Zanizi “My thesis was to propose tasting food as a joint, which was rewarded with the designation of the place as a historical heritage.”
He was In March 2022 when he collided with Oliveira’s corner He was fascinated by the potential revealed. He got out of the car and left his phone with Elba at the front of the room and asked him to sell it to Goodwill.
Three days later Good news: the historic site built by the cousins Jacinto and Barbito was theirs. It was the diners themselves who later suggested the direction the restaurant should take.
“In general, city dwellers ignore this area of low-rise houses where you can see the sky and admire the leafy species. A few steps away are the Mataderos Gallery and the Oliveira Palace, full of artistic activities,” he says, keen to attract a wider audience to this pole away from the usual destinations.
Chef Leonardo Diaz Kitchen orders olive Its menu is divided into five sections: antipasti, pastas, casseroles, and Milanese dishes with a plentiful selection of French fries and charcoal grills, with all sections paired with different types of wine.
They stand out Fried tripe empanadasVegetables, mozzarella, steak, chard sandwiches, artisan pasta, crock pot braised sorrentinos, green dessert bread, classic potato pie, eggplant parmesan, beet risotto, goulash, Intestine pie with pumpkin puree. Moment of Sweetness offers options of novelty tiramisu, stewed tarts and homemade tarts.
olive. 901 Oliveira Street, Avellaneda Park. From Wednesday to Sunday from 12 to 01.