Criticism | SP
Quirky kitchen
R. Ribeiro de Barros, 42B, Pompeia, Western Region. @tortocozinha
Three stars (good)
Fans of fried eggs with soft yolks and whites with lace edges (that stay crispy) will instantly love Torto Cozinha, which recently opened in the Pompeia neighborhood.
You arrive home on toasted brioche bread and a handful of caviar. The idea is to eat the whites with the brioche and leave the yolks last to enjoy with the roe. At this time, the creamy texture comes together in the mouth. One with the expected flavour. The other is saltier and melts on the tongue buttery.
It’s the starter of bread with eggs and caviar (R$45), the best we tried on our visit, a Saturday night. Which was able to summarize the idea of the house, describing it as “from classic to chaotic.” The next entry is a collision. The tomato carpaccio ($35 Brazilian) arrives with an airy goat cheese cream that doesn’t show its provenance in your mouth. And the promised Brazil nuts don’t look good. You get the impression that you ordered thinly sliced tomatoes seasoned with olive oil and nothing more.
The antipasti of the de mocha finger peppers, breaded and stuffed with a mixture of melted cheeses (R$35), was responsive comfort food, one you might want to take home. What arrives is proper frying, dry and crunchy, but with a timid filling that doesn’t make the expected mess.
At this point, we noticed that it would have been better to choose one of the tables in the small room at the entrance. Since there were five of us, we chose the one at the back, which is a bit larger. Improvised in a windowless garage with the gate open, there was a strong smell of fuel due to the intense movement of motorcycles on the street. To the point of compromising the meal.
Of the main courses, the vori vori with ossobuco (R$75) was delicious. Made with fried corn fritters accompanied by ossobuco and slow-cooked meat broth, it fits well with the concept. The last highlight was the rib with polenta (R$85). The meat was roasted with brandy and was tender. It goes well with creamy polenta.
Two people at the table ordered a flat iron with French fries (R$85). This tender meat, which many people know as a paddle, was accompanied by an abundance of respectable French fries. There are no frozen and tasteless potatoes, as is commonly believed. The desired meat reached the point correctly. The one who ordered well got to the point for more. Another detail is that the dishes were served alternately.
Mine was the duck with sauerkraut (pickled cabbage) and apple puree ($80 Brazilian). With the weaker offering, he bumped into the others, which were lovely and well served. Although just the right pink colour, it didn’t shine in flavor or juiciness.
For dessert, Carolina filled with white chocolate, semisweet crust and chocolate syrup on the side (R$45). The dumplings are light and the filling is a secret. It comes with three units that end the meal on a light note.
Opened in August, the restaurant does not yet serve drinks, and wine options are limited to a few labels. With significant modifications, the house reveals potential. Especially if you lose your shyness in jumping into the concept you are proposing. You can bring classic dishes prepared with extra attention to detail and messy dishes prepared without shame.