Rafael Ruiz Cabrera, chef of Ermita de la Candelaria, opens up his personal world at Gastrotest, characterized by memory, simplicity and an absolute passion for well-made flavour. From their breakfast that “feeds the soul” to their tireless search for “ … Perfect French Fries”, the Cordoba chef shares his favorite addresses, the dishes that interest him and the places that inspire a cuisine that combines tradition with a good product.
If you could eat breakfast quietly in the morning… where would you do it? because?
Walking towards the Cathedral, this walk alone nourishes the soul… We always cross the Patio de los Naranjos and through the Puerta de San Sebastián we reach Horno de Mel. Delicious coffee and good bread with company and fresh juice
A reliable butcher shop and fish and fruit seller. Why choose it, what makes it different?
Since I have little time, I usually shop at Diza supermarkets. Cordobés, committed to local products and our communities. The fish, for example, from La Carihuela, we know their facilities and the product is very fresh.
A gourmet shop or kiosk where you can find that special thing you are looking for for your home and kitchen. Tell us what makes you special!
I really like salted cod, old, that needs to be salted. I think its texture and flavor are very different from what we normally use, almost salty. For me it is a different product. I think Risquez has exceptional Skrei cod.
Neighborhood bar where you can have an aperitif with friends. What is your favorite tapa there?
Ooops!!! the warm pickled brisket at Cibeles, which reminds me of what they used to eat at the now-defunct Ciro’s; Shrimp with Pink Sauce from Bodeguilla; and anchovy-marinated tomatoes from Taberna La Magdalena.
Oxtail from La Ermita de la Candelaria (Córdoba)
A special restaurant to invite the family to eat.
And since I’m from Palma del Río, there’s no such thing as a piña flamenca. There, El Primo treats us like family, as does everyone who passes there. It’s an ancient stew with great flavour!! From the asparagus tagarina with just the right touch of cumin and vinegar, to the braised cauliflower with oysters, and to the lamb with onion and wine sauce that can’t be beat. I’m writing and drooling.
A different place to change things…and why?
Inquito. A fusion restaurant, very different from what we do but with consistency in the final flavor of the dishes that I love. Very balanced dishes with sometimes complex ingredients for our tastes.
Recognized vice (gastronomically speaking)?
French fries! I’m looking for the perfect packaged potato chip. And when it came to frying them, she became obsessed. Peel them just before eating, do not put them in water, cut them by hand, not with a mandolin and of course, fry them in a pan in extra virgin olive oil with the exact ratio so they do not become lumpy or hard.
A “fancy” restaurant that you return to and what do you like most about it
Without hesitation, Mesón Sabor Andaluz, with Pedro Aguilera and his family. Simplicity lives up to haute cuisine, far from the routine that bore me to death in this type of “premium” restaurant. He approaches the green world with season in a masterful way, adding protein to it, and getting it rounded, dish after dish. You think the next stage can’t be now… and it is.
A sale, bar or restaurant in the province that should not be missed
Montoro, Sol Zapatella Restaurant, Manolo and Mary, Mary and Manolo. Double-edged that works like magic. Manolo goes out to the fields in the morning with a basket full of clams, jugs, pheasants, tagarinas, artichokes… and Marie is responsible for the “arrangement” and cooking over the wood, which is flavored with cistus. Can you ask for more?
Coffee or drink?
Well, no coffee, no booze, I like to finish off my meal with wine. Our amazing team wins by a landslide.
The famous ratatouille made in La Ermita de la Candelaria (Córdoba)
What do you like to bring at home when you have guests?
I usually know what people who come to my house like. It’s so nice to be invited to do what you love. The ratatouille dish we make at Ermita’s is one of the dishes many people request from me.