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- author, Carmen Roberts
- To roll, BBC Culture
Our ferry arrived at Thoddoo Island in the Maldives to the sound of motorcycle exhaust, not the drone of seaplanes. The air smelled faintly of salt and watermelon.
Twelve years ago, my last visit to the Maldives, for an episode of the TV show The travel fairfrom the BBC. At the time, the islands were still a postcard fantasy, with over-the-water hostels, private islands, and prices that kept most tourists away.
From now on, the Indian Ocean archipelago welcomes families who arrive with backpacks on collective boats, without the couriers carrying Louis Vuitton suitcases.
This is not the Maldives I knew – and here’s the problem. Over the past decade, the atolls have undergone a quiet revolution.
Government reforms allowed residents to open guesthouses on inhabited islands. The previous rule limited tourism to resorts located in enclaves without residents.
The result was transformative. There are now more than 1,200 operating guesthouses spread across 90 islands, according to the Maldives Ministry of Tourism.
Through this, tourists can experience the culture and daily life of the country and, for the first time, local families can directly benefit from the tourism sector, which supports their economy.
During my last visit, with my three children, I wanted to observe the effects of this change in practice.
Our journey took us from the warm hospitality of Thoddoo (often referred to as the “farm island” of the Maldives) to a mid-range resort that redefines the meaning of sustainable luxury.
Together, they tell the story of a country that is broadening its welcome and quietly reshaping our notion of what heaven is.
Life on the islands
Thoddoo Island, in the North Ari Atoll, seems light years away from the manicured perfection of resort living, many of which can be found near the Maldivian capital, Malé.
The collective speedboat trip from Male to the island takes 90 minutes and costs much less than the shared seaplane at luxury resorts.
As soon as we arrived, we immediately noticed that the rhythm of the island is completely different. There are no cars, just bicycles and, occasionally, the electric cart that buzzes along the sandy, palm-fringed lines.
Rows of papaya trees and fields of watermelon dot the island, surrounded by the Maldives’ iconic turquoise waters.
Credit, Getty Images
We stayed in the first guesthouse on the island, called Serene Sky. Its owner is Ahmed Karam, former president of the Maldives Pension Association and one of the leading voices in the country’s growing island tourism movement.
Serene Sky is simple and impeccable. Its pillows are not designer and the bathroom is modest. But the welcome is sincere, with home-cooked meals of the highest quality: reef fish caught hours before, pumpkin curry from neighboring farms and the freshest watermelon juice imaginable.
Karam says this new wave of community-based tourism has changed the landscape here.
“Now locals can benefit directly from tourism money,” he says. “But it also made us aware of the need to protect our heritage: the island, the reefs, nature. That’s what brings people here to see it.”
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My kids loved the freedom of the island. We snorkeled in the nearby reefs with the locals and experienced our first magical encounter with sea turtles.
Later, we relaxed at one of the island’s designated “bikini beaches,” which are small expanses set aside for visitors to swim and sunbathe in Western swimwear. The Maldives is a predominantly Muslim nation and its residents expect discreet clothing in other parts of the country.
Credit, Carmen Roberts
We met local farmer Andy Anis who invited us to visit his farm. He opens a beautiful watermelon in the middle of the field for us to taste. The juice runs down our wrists in the heat.
Later, at the little Anis juice bar, we ate coconut ice cream and watched night fall on the island.
Sustainable luxury
The second part of our trip was a whole different world: the local family resort Sun Siyam Olhuveli, located on the southern Male Atoll.
We had a warm and theatrical welcome, with drums on the pier, cold towels and smiling staff. But what caught my attention was the ease.
The resort representative who helped us, Raail, always smiling, took care of everything via WhatsApp, from diving equipment to medicines for the children.
We opted for two beachfront rooms and an apartment all inclusive. Tourists tend to ignore this model because it is generic, but here it was liberating.
We had over 10 restaurants and bars to choose from spread across three islands. And with the activities and transportation included in the package, we were able to focus on spending time together.
Credit, Carmen Roberts
Sun Siyam Olhuveli caters well to families looking for reef adventures, without the high prices of luxury packages.
My children roamed freely along the coastline, observing turtles and sharks near the nearby reef. I indulged in boat dives to explore places like Shark Point and Banna Reef, where stingrays glide like shadows and hawksbill turtles graze on coral.
Back on dry land, the six swimming pools offer endless space for fun and relaxation. One of them is the longest in the Maldives, measuring 210 meters in length.
The resort offers a rare balance, refined but relaxed. Their friendliness comes naturally in a local business.
This type of resort is the front line in the race for sustainable development in the Maldives. With the program called Sun Siyam Cuida, visitors can participate in beach cleanups, plant corals and restore lagoons.
The resort’s Recycle-Reuse initiative turns old sheets into cleaning cloths and single-use plastics are gradually being banned. Even my request for a plastic bag for wet swimsuits was met with a smile: “We don’t use that anymore.”
Credit, Carmen Roberts
The race for sustainable development extends beyond individual resorts.
Environmental policy now goes hand in hand with tourism in the country and regulations aim to reduce the use of single-use plastic, save energy and protect marine life.
The government of President Mohamed Muizzu has set an ambitious goal: to produce 33% of its electricity from renewable sources by 2028. The measure is essential to reduce the Maldives’ carbon footprint and protect the fragile ecosystems that support the tourism sector.
The country’s Minister of Tourism and Environment, Thoriq Ibrahim, summarizes the strategy:
“Our pristine environment is our fundamental resource. We do not seek growth at the expense of our environment.”
The evolution of the Maldives is visible. Family pensions and inns now offer rich encounters with local life. And the country’s resident-owned resorts prove that it’s possible to provide comfort with a clear conscience.
For tourists who previously couldn’t afford to pay to experience the exclusivity of this paradise, the islands now offer something much more valuable: authenticity.
What was once a honeymoon dream is now a destination that families can visit, without just wishful thinking.
Credit, Carmen Roberts
Plan your trip
Diversify your stay: Split your trip between a local guesthouse and resort to experience culture and comfort.
Transportation: Shared speedboats to islands like Thoddoo cost between USD 30 and 70 (around R$ 160 to 375) per person (one way). Book early during the holiday season.
Use baggage intelligence: Reef-safe sunscreen, snorkel gear, and reef shoes deserve space in your suitcase.
Respect local customs: use designated bikini beaches and dress discreetly in villages. Alcohol is prohibited on the islands.
Choose trusted operators: Hire tourism and dive companies committed to reef-friendly practices.
Prices: guesthouses cost between US$50 and US$60 (around R$268–321) per night. Mid-tier resorts, such as Sun Siyam Olhuveli, cost upwards of US$499 (around R$2,700) and ultra-luxurious stays start at US$1,000 (around R$5,400).
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