For stylists and researchers, one of the biggest challenges facing Brazil’s fashion sector is the lack of public policies that encourage responsible disposal and can curb the culture of excessive consumption fueled by algorithms. Experts agree that technology is an ally in this process, but the cost of innovation remains high for players in the fashion chain and therefore requires tax incentives. During Voices 2025, Yamê Reis, founder of Rio Ethical Fashion and Instituto Muda Mais, highlighted the urgency of implementing public policies aimed at encouraging the recycling of production in the fashion industry:
— The challenge today is not to find technological solutions to the problem of excessive consumption and disposal, because they already exist and there are many of them. There is a lack of implementation, and a lot of it has to do with public policy.
During the “The Fashion Algorithm” panel, Yamê highlighted the industry’s responsibility in greenhouse gas emissions. Committed to spreading the culture of sustainability in fashion, the activist has drawn attention to the actions of algorithms that influence society and increase consumption and she highlights the culture of fast fashion, which results in inappropriate disposal.
— The fashion industry worldwide represents between 5 and 8% of greenhouse gas emissions, comparable to emissions from air and maritime transport. In addition, 70% of this industry’s production is incorrectly rejected and sent to countries in the southern hemisphere, as is the case in Chile.
Innovation has contributed to this, particularly in the area of sustainable materials. Yamê cited the work of Paraíba researcher Thamires Pontes, founder of the startup Phycolabs, which transforms algae into textile threads.
— We have many technologies to find sustainable solutions, but there is still a lack of tax incentives to stimulate these initiatives.
The focus on cutting-edge technology for yarn development represents the future of fashion according to the vision of Oskar Metsavaht, founder of the Osklen brand. For the entrepreneur, who is also an environmentalist, Brazil is fully capable of taking the lead in the sustainable development of the fashion industry, but it still needs to make progress in public policies in this segment.
— We helped put this issue on the map, and the world expects it from us. We have rich biodiversity and we know how to live with nature, he said.
Regarding the role of artificial intelligence in the production process, Metsavaht sees more potential than threats. According to him, AI can broaden the vision of concepts, possibilities and references of raw materials. The algorithm can also be an instrument to improve environmental problems and optimize goals, he stressed. On the other hand, Metsavaht drew attention to the costs of innovation, which remain very high.
— Sustainability is an expensive innovation because it has no scale. This is an additional cost for academia, research and industry. Sustainable products are more expensive because the entire production chain involves innovation, he stressed.
However, it is not enough to have technology, it is necessary to promote a change in the culture of society, Metsavaht stressed, concerned about excessive consumption and the encouragement of fast fashion.
— Fast fashion, which many of us applaud for its affordability, comes at a cost: the landfills of Atacama, Chile. When we consume a lot of fashion, we also consume a lot of materials, a lot of water and energy.
Technology as a fashion trend is very positive, Yamê emphasized. However, the founder of Rio Ethical Fashion, also coordinator of fashion design at the European Institute of Design, fears the advancement of the algorithm which encourages consumption.
— It is the obligation of brands to find the formula to change this culture of overconsumption, hyperproduction and fast fashion which dominates the fashion ecosystem. Just when we thought we had gotten rid of fast fashion, digital giants appear, bypassing the fashion design processes, provoking our desire to be dominated by the algorithm — provoked Reis.
For Metsavaht, we must also, as a society, take responsibility to become more conscious in terms of consumption.
— We consume too much. We seek aesthetics, beauty, status with more viable products, but our criteria do not prioritize sustainable products — he said.
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